Steel Wool 0000
Want your pieces painted with Chalk Paint® and CLEAR Wax to feel smooth as glass?
DIRECTIONS:FIRST OPTION:
Apply clear wax as you normally would using a brush or rag and then remove excess- as normal.
1. Use these a steel wool Grade 000 pad after you have applied your clear wax and removed the residual.
2. Your piece should be dry.
3. Then take a steel wool pad and gently wipe your piece in the same direction as the grain of your brush strokes - from edge to edge. Do this just for a few swipes and then stop and feel.
This grade of steel wool will polish your clear wax and you will be in awe of the finish your painted and clear waxed piece now has.
BE AWARE!:
* First time using? Do this in an area on the piece that is less conspicuous, compared to the top of your piece or front dresser drawer. (just like as I recommend trying Dark Wax the first time- experiment on a little cheap item first or paint the back of the piece and wax it- so you can practice techniques there.) * Have you noticed in all my instructions, I keep stating CLEAR wax? That is because if you try this on Dark Wax and it has not cured- depending on the amount applied- you can start to lift some of the dark wax. Again- practice or start on the back first. * Don't scrub in a circular motion. I like to wipe the steel wool pads in the direction (or the grain) of my brush strokes. * This will create a little sheen. So, if you are looking to keep a flat, matte finish be cautious.
SECOND OPTION:
I love to use steel wool to softly polish my Chalk Paint® BEFORE waxing. Especially when I do decorative painting. HOWEVER= do not use this option on light colored paint since the oil in the wool can leave a mark or residue behind.
I like to use the steel wool to soften the surface so you cannot feel any ridge or texture difference between where I applied the additional paint and base coat as in the Union Jack piece I have shown in the photos below.
A painting expert that I know once wrote, "
Only occasionally (do I use steel wool) and ONLY over a (previous) wax layer ... never directly on Chalk Paint® because it can leave some discoloration. Usually when I want to touch up or refresh an old waxed finish. These cabinet doors are a couple of years old and had been handled a lot. I just use a very very small amount of wax, rub it on with 0000 steel wool and light pressure, and buff. Easy and fast. Leftover tricks from my old cabinet finishing days!
Also, this is best when you have two coats of wax applied then use either Annie's "fine" sanding sponge or 000 or 0000 Steel wool. But I would NOT use
traditional the grey steel wool on pieces painted in light or
"white" colors since it could leave a small grey residue behind.
Make sure the wax was properly applied and residual removed and
has cured for at least 24 hours. : ) This primarily works best
for Clear wax. I find that the tinted waxes do not always buff up
uniformly.
* High Quality Steel Wool
* Great Tool for Surface Preparation
In the picture showcasing the steel wool... you see a drawer that I painted.
I first painted it with Louis Blue, then Greek Blue, finished with a coat of Florence Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan. One coat of each color.
Then I next used sandpaper (I think some 180 grit) and sanded back the edges and corners to give it a worn, aged effect. I also sanded the flat surface aggressively to reveal the colors beneath. In some areas I wanted to wood of the piece to show- so you can see how I sanded it back to reveal that.
Lastly, I applied my clear wax exactly as I demo in my
VIDEO HERE. Once I had the clear wax completed- (which means it does not feel tacky and my fingers can glide across the surface); I then lightly polished the drawer with some of the Grade 000 steel wool.
You will immediately feel a difference. The wax finish will be like glass! 
