Clear Chalk Paint Wax, formally known as Soft Wax: THIS IS THE SAME PRODUCT! Just new branding! This is the smaller container of Clear Wax that Annie Sloan offers.
Annie Sloan's 4.22ounce MINI Wax Pots! (120 ml) This is a SMALL POT- (enough to cover 2 chairs) If buying a quart of paint- you really should buy the 500ml tin of wax HERE
COVERAGE: A mini wax pot should cover about 80 to 100 sq ft of one application. Please let me introduce you to our mini wax pots! Coming in at only 4.22 ounces- this size will be the perfect stocking stuffer! OR- for those who just want to test the waters with using wax and do not want to commit to the full 500 ml tin. A mini wax pot is perfect for a couple of chairs. This is NOT enough to do a hutch or a bedroom suite.
The 4 ounce Soft Wax sample tins offer 25 square feet of coverage and come in CLEAR and DARK wax versions. Both waxes offer protection for the paint and enhance the paint color and look & feel of the finish. The DARK wax can be used as an antiquing medium over the paint (usually applied on top of a clear wax base) or as a stain-and-seal directly over unfinished wood.
Annie Sloan Clear Wax is the consistency of soft margarine in a tub so it is easy to apply, is completely colorless and has very little odor. It is water repellent so can be used on dining room tables and kitchens. Wipe clean regularly and use a spray cleaner for tough areas - but make sure it does not contain a de-greaser - which will hurt the wax.
We recommend ALWAYS using Annie's Wax with her Chalk Paint®!
And we suggest applying the paint, waxing it and then sanding it for the best results. You can color the wax with a little of our paint to make a white wax.
How Much Wax Do I apply?
First, take note: we are not icing a cake! We are waxing furniture. So, very thin uniform coats are best. Just like when you put moisturizer on your skin - you do not put a thick coat on, but rather a THIN coat and rub it in - so that it will be absorbed into your skin. This is the same approach when waxing furniture.
Here is what I do:
1. I take a plastic spoon and a paper plate. Using the backside of the spoon, I take a good tablespoon amount of wax out of the tin and put it on the paper plate. (Place the cover back on the tin of wax until you need more)
2. I use my wax brush and pull some of the wax from the glob (for lack of better words) on the paper plate. Only the tips of your wax brush should have wax on them - and not a lot!!!! A little goes a long way! Again - you are not icing a cake where you want a generous amount of thickness. We are applying the wax very thin- pressing uniformly with steady pressure - but not so much that you are bending the bristles on the wax brush or breaking a sweat.
3. For most pieces I usually apply the clear wax in a circular motion, but some people like to "brush" it on like when they are painting. Either way, if I was doing a dresser top- I would start at the back reaching across while standing in front of the piece and as I apply the Annie Sloan wax I work my way toward the front as so I don't lean into a previously waxed area. You will see where you waxed prior because it does deepen the hue of the paint.
4. After a few strokes from one side to the other with the wax brush, I then take a lint free cotton t-shirt (an old one from my husband or an old sheet) and I wipe off the residual wax with a few wipes.
Then, I grab a new, clean cloth (we like to refer to this as the "finishing rag.".) And we will wipe the waxed piece in the same direction as we originally painted. Basically, in this step- we are just making sure the wax is nicely cleaned off totally. You should be able to take the top of your hand after this and slide it across the waxed area. It should glide withOUT any drag. If you feel resistence- that means there is still some residual wax there.
Just a reminder- we are waxing only here= NOT buffing the wax at this stage! Merely just removing or incorporating any small wax "crumbs" that may be present.) Again - just one or two swipes across the whole area in one sweep, and that is it.
5. Then, start waxing the next area.
It is important during the "finishing" wipe stage to BLEND any previous waxed areas with the new section you just did. You want the wax to be cohesive- not splotchy.
6. The wax will cure. However a variable in the cure time is the temperature and humidity where you are located. Is it is humid and cooler - cure time will be longer. If it is taking a long time and your wax is still tacky and you are not in the rain forest- reread my warnings above regarding applying the wax thin! You may have left too much on.
7. If you want a shinier finish- buff your piece. Annie often recommends waiting 24 hours after your last wax application to do this. But if you like the look of your piece as is- then you are done! It does not take much rubbing and the piece will be quite shiny- so pay attention and have good lighting so that you do not over do it.
8. Remember NO WAX when painting pieces for outside.
9. Surfaces that will get serious use (wear and tear) like tops of dressers and tables should receive 2 to 3 coats of wax. Follow procedure above, always allow wax to dry between additional coats.
I will always lead my customers on a path to get the best value from their purchase. If a person walks in and is describing an application where another product would be better- I let them know! Now when it comes to tools - in the sense of brushes, I strongly believe that a wax brush is a necessary purchase if you plan on doing multiple pieces. I understand that they are not inexpensive, but if you maintain them, they will last forever and will make your waxing process much faster and from a cosmetic perspective will significantly improve your application! I always say this is similar to applying make up. I honestly don't think the applicator you choose for putting on eye shadow is a big deal- but try putting blush on with a skinny brush versus a nice big soft brush and you are going to look ridiculous. Invest in a wax brush and get a professional quality finish. You will not regret it.
Clear wax is quite versatile in that you can add some Chalk Paint® to the wax to tint it. For example, use Antoinette Chalk Paint in the clear to make pink wax or ....if you want to darken the Dark Wax, consider adding some Aubusson Blue Paint to make the dark wax closer to black.
As noted in a post earlier, the waxes can become very soft in heat, so store them in a cool place. You can put in refrigerator for short time if needed. The wax is the consistency of soft butter. Never use a heat source to warm your wax!
This furniture wax will rejuvenate, restore the shine, and protect all interior painted and wooden surfaces.
It is important to understand that once you wax a piece of furniture, you cannot polyurethane over it! It will eventually cause a quality problem, I guarantee that! You can use a furniture oil...like Miss Mustard Seed's Hemp Oil...and once fully cured, you can use wax but not the other way around. (I don't know why you would wax over oil, but just an FYI if you are considering it.)
Consider taking a class from a stockist to learn all the ways to maximize using your Annie Sloan Clear Wax or for more terrific project ideas - we highly recommend Annie Sloan's book, "Quick and Easy Paint Transformations". It contains 50 Chalk Paint projects that will inspire and instruct you.
The Purple Painted Lady is often asked....what is in the wax?
Linda asked, are mineral spirits in the wax? Is it wax (like a pure candle wax) and mineral spirits mixed together. Just curious. Not wanting to make my own just curious to know what is in it.
Here is what I wrote back:
Annie's wax is a composition of various components- and her total formula, ratios and ingredients are proprietary....just like every other product on the market ranging from make up to Kentucky Fried Chicken or Coca-Cola. But I can share that there is Bee's Wax- which is pretty self explanatory.
There is also Carnauba Wax ...which did- you know ....is used in the coatings of M&Ms. Carnauba wax has a very high melting point of 82-86 °C. It is harder than concrete (which makes it wonderful when it comes to protecting your finished piece) and is nearly insoluble in water and ethanol. (another great characteristic since we do not want a glass of water dissolving the top coat) Now here is what I think is quite astonishing about Carnauba Wax....it is non-toxic and hypoallergenic. The combination of properties leads to many applications, including use in food, cosmetics, automobile and furniture wax, molds for semiconductor devices, and as a coating for dental floss. You use products that contain carnauba wax every day, though you may not have known what the ingredient was or where it came from. It is one of those extremely useful natural chemicals and renewable resources that doesn't have a synthetic equivalent. As for my car smelling like candy... the wax does have a distinctive sweet scent. It might be more accurate to say many car waxes and candies smell like carnauba wax. (link to more information.... http://chemistry.about.com/od/foodchemistryfaqs/f/carnauba-wax.htm)
And then there is also a petroleum by-product in it. The petroleum by-product is a bit vague - but keep in mind that these are specific residual materials left over from other manufacturing processes. Many are used to make wax or even are used in the food industry. (link to more information= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_product)
There are a lot of furniture waxes on the market...Annie's wax has over two decades of perfecting the composition and usage with her paint. So there is nothing nicer out there in the marketplace to use on furniture than Annie Sloan's Soft Waxes! I hope that this was helpful.
Here is some additional information I would like to share in case you are wondering if you could use another type of wax- like Briwax. First- never use Briwax. It has an ingredient called Toluene in it. Which is awful! Briwax is terrible with Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan. Basically the toluene works as sort of paint stripper!
To find a stockist near you, visit AnnieSloan.com